Troubleshooting 3D Prints on Artillery Printers
Artillery's Sidewinder and Genius lines are straightforward budget bedslingers — every curated machine (Sidewinder X2, Sidewinder X4 Plus, Genius Pro, Hornet) is open-frame with no enclosure and no auxiliary fan, so the troubleshooting playbook here is the classic open-printer one, no exceptions.
The Artillery lineup we cover
4 curated Artillery machines are in our knowledge base, taken from the vendor's own OrcaSlicer-family printer profiles: 0 of 4 ship (or come standard) with an enclosure, and 0 of 4 carry a dedicated auxiliary (side/chamber) part-cooling fan in addition to the main print-cooling fan.
| Machine | Enclosed | Aux fan |
|---|---|---|
| Artillery Sidewinder X2 | No | No |
| Artillery Sidewinder X4 Plus | No | No |
| Artillery Genius Pro | No | No |
| Artillery Hornet | No | No |
Sidewinder X2, Sidewinder X4 Plus, Genius Pro and Hornet are all open bedslingers with no enclosure and no auxiliary fan — the most uniform lineup of any brand we track. There's no enclosed model to compare against, so every material-specific caveat in this hub applies across the whole range.
Cooling and the enclosure question
With nothing but part-cooling fans across the entire lineup, Artillery machines behave exactly like the generic open-bedslinger case in our material guides: PLA and PETG print close to their stock profile predictions, and ABS/ASA printing means an owner-built tent, maximum practical bed temperature and a brim — there is no chamber anywhere in this brand's range to lighten that load.
Baseline settings for Artillery filament profiles
These are the values the vendor's own OrcaSlicer-family profiles ship with for the materials it supports natively; use them as your starting point, then adjust per spool with the calibrations linked below.
| Material | Nozzle | Bed (textured) | Fan max |
|---|---|---|---|
| PLA | 200 °C | 60 °C | 100 % |
| PETG | 255 °C | 80 °C | 90 % |
| ABS | 260 °C | 105 °C | 80 % |
| TPU | 240 °C | 35 °C | 100 % |
What tends to go wrong on Artillery printers
ABS/ASA warping. The single most common Artillery complaint. No enclosure available from the factory on any model: tent it, max the bed temperature within range, minimise part cooling, brim generously. See the ABS/ASA warping guide.
First-layer adhesion on the stock flexible plate. Budget coated sheets need regular IPA cleaning; grease from handling defeats them faster than the coating itself wears out. See the bed adhesion guide.
PETG stringing. Dry, then cool the nozzle 10 °C, then retraction — the standard order that fixes most of it regardless of machine. See PETG stringing.
Before you assume it's a setting
None of the numbers above are Artillery-specific magic — they're the vendor's own OrcaSlicer-family profile defaults, which means they carry the same caveat every third-party filament profile does: they're a starting point, not a guarantee. Two checks catch most "the settings are wrong" reports before they turn into hours of random tweaking:
- Run flow-ratio calibration on any filament that isn't the exact brand the profile was written for. A generic or off-brand spool can be several percent off the stock flow ratio, and that shows up as over- or under-extrusion that looks like a slicer problem but isn't.
- Confirm the plate type in the slicer matches the plate on the bed. Mismatched plate selection is the single most common cause of a print that "should have stuck" on any of these machines, Artillery included.
Whatever you're chasing beyond that, the general fix is the same everywhere: change one variable, print a small test, read the result before touching the next value. The diagnosis tool turns your specific machine, filament and symptom into that ordered list automatically.
Frequently asked questions
Why do ABS and ASA prints warp on Artillery printers?
ABS and ASA warp on Artillery printers because no model in the lineup — Sidewinder X2, Sidewinder X4 Plus, Genius Pro or Hornet — ships with an enclosure or auxiliary fan, so the shrinking plastic cools unevenly in open room air. The fix is an owner-built tent, the maximum practical bed temperature (Artillery’s ABS profile uses 105 °C), minimal part cooling and a generous brim.
What temperatures does Artillery’s stock profile use for PLA, PETG and ABS?
Artillery’s own OrcaSlicer-family profiles ship with PLA at 200 °C nozzle, 60 °C bed and 100 % fan; PETG at 255 °C, 80 °C and 90 % fan; ABS at 260 °C, 105 °C and 80 % fan; TPU at 240 °C, 35 °C and 100 % fan (textured plate). Treat these as starting points and run flow-ratio calibration per spool.
What should I check first when a print won’t stick on an Artillery printer?
First confirm the plate type selected in the slicer matches the plate actually on the bed — a mismatch is the single most common cause of failed adhesion. Second, clean the flexible plate with isopropyl alcohol, since handling grease defeats budget coated sheets faster than wear does. Only then start changing temperatures or other settings, one variable per test print.
Not sure which fix applies to your Artillery printer?
Answer five quick questions about your printer, filament and build plate, and our rule engine turns them into a prioritized fix list with exact slicer values — the same knowledge these guides are written from.
Get a personalized fix list in 2 minutes — free Works with Bambu Studio, OrcaSlicer, PrusaSlicer and Cura. No account needed.Sources
- OrcaSlicer vendor profiles — SoftFever/OrcaSlicer (GitHub)