Clearance & Fit: The Four Numbers That Make Printed Parts Fit Together

Lids that jam, hinges that fuse, dowels that rattle — almost every “my parts don't fit” problem comes down to one missing habit: designing a deliberate clearance between mating surfaces. Learn four names and four numbers — the fit ladder — and your parts start fitting on the first try.

What clearance actually means

Clearance is the gap you deliberately leave between two surfaces that face each other. Model a 10 mm pin and a 10 mm hole, and in CAD they mate perfectly — on a printer they jam, because a well-tuned FDM machine still varies by roughly ±0.1–0.2 mm in XY, holes print 0.1–0.3 mm undersized (the nozzle rounds inside corners on segmented arcs), and the seam adds a small bump on every perimeter. The gap has to absorb all of that and leave room for the fit you want.

Every number in this guide is the gap per side — per pair of facing surfaces. For a pin in a hole that means the hole diameter grows by twice the clearance:

Pin Ø 10.0 mm clearance (per side) Hole size formula hole Ø = pin Ø + 2 × clearance + ~0.2 (FDM holes print undersized) Flat surfaces (lids, boxes): just add the clearance on each facing wall.
The clearance is per side. A hole also needs ~0.2 mm extra because FDM holes always print a touch small.

The fit ladder: press → snug → free → loose

Mechanical engineers have a whole ISO system for this (ISO 286 — H7/g6 and friends), but on an FDM printer four fits cover practically everything you will ever design. The numbers form a ladder that is easy to remember: 0.1 → 0.2 → 0.3 → 0.4.

PRESS 0.05–0.15 glue joints · dowels dovetails · inserts SNUG 0.15–0.25 sliding lids · drawers stays put by friction FREE 0.25–0.40 hinges · spinners print-in-place LOOSE 0.40–0.60 threads · screw lids must never bind
Same pin, four holes. The gap grows one rung at a time — 0.1, 0.2, 0.3, 0.4 mm (per side).
FitClearance / sideFeels likeUse it for
Press fit0.05–0.15 mmNeeds a firm push or a mallet tap; holds by frictionGlue joints, dowel pins, dovetail connectors, bearing seats, magnets in pockets
Snug fit0.15–0.25 mmSlides with light resistance, stays where you leave itSliding lids, drawers, battery doors, tool-holder sleeves
Free fit0.25–0.40 mmMoves freely, no play you can feelHinges, fidget spinners, print-in-place joints, shafts that rotate
Loose fit0.40–0.60 mmObvious play; can never jamPrinted threads, screw-on container lids, parts assembled blind

The nozzle rule is the fastest way to remember the middle of the ladder: with a standard 0.4 mm nozzle, half a nozzle width (0.2 mm) gives a snug slide, a full nozzle width (0.4 mm) gives a loose fit. Bigger nozzle, bigger clearances — the rule scales with it.

Try it: the clearance visualizer

Drag the slider and watch the gap between a 10 mm pin and its hole — drawn to scale on the left, zoomed 10× on the right so you can actually see what 0.1 mm means.

Ø 10 mm true scale zoom 10× on the edge hole wall pin surface

0.20 mmSnug fit · sliding lids, drawers

Find YOUR printer's numbers: the 15-minute test coin

The ladder is the map — your printer is the terrain. Two printers with the same slicer profile can easily differ by 0.1 mm, which is a whole rung. So calibrate the ladder to your machine once:

  1. Model a gauge: one plate with a 10 × 15 mm pin standing on it, and five holes: Ø 10.2, 10.4, 10.6, 10.8 and 11.0 mm (= 0.1–0.5 mm clearance per side). Mark each hole with embossed text. Any CAD tool can do it in ten minutes — or search for “tolerance test” on a model site.
  2. Print it flat in the filament you actually build with, using your normal profile.
  3. Test the pin in each hole and write down what you feel: first hole it presses into = your press fit; first it slides with friction = snug; first it moves freely = free; first with visible play = loose.
  4. Keep the coin. Re-print it when you change nozzle, filament brand or printer — it is the cheapest insurance in 3D printing.

If your measured ladder sits higher than 0.1/0.2/0.3/0.4, your printer over-extrudes slightly or the holes shrink more than average — run a flow ratio calibration first, then re-test. A well-calibrated machine lands close to the standard rungs.

Adjustments the cheat sheet can't skip

Download the cheat sheet

One A4 page with the ladder, the nozzle rule, the hole formula and the material adjustments — print it and hang it next to the printer.

Frequently asked questions

How much clearance should I leave between parts that will be glued?

Use the press-fit rung or slightly above: 0.1–0.15 mm per side. The joint should assemble by hand without force, leaving a thin, even gap the adhesive can actually fill — a zero-clearance joint scrapes the glue off on the way in, and beyond about 0.2 mm most CA glues and epoxies lose strength in the oversized gap.

Why do my holes come out smaller than I designed them?

FDM holes print 0.1–0.3 mm undersized for two reasons: the slicer approximates circles with straight segments whose chords cut inside the ideal curve, and the extruded bead bulges slightly inward on concave paths. Compensate by adding about 0.2 mm to every hole diameter on top of your fit clearance, and verify with a test coin on your own machine.

Do the same clearance values work on every printer?

No — the ladder (0.1/0.2/0.3/0.4 mm per side) fits a well-calibrated printer, but machines easily differ by 0.1 mm, a whole rung. Print a test coin: a 10 mm pin plus holes from Ø 10.2 to 11.0 mm, and note where press, snug, free and loose actually land on your machine. Re-test after changing nozzle, filament brand or flow calibration.

Prints failing before parts even meet?

Answer five quick questions about your printer, filament and build plate, and our rule engine turns them into a prioritized fix list with exact slicer values — the same knowledge these guides are written from.

Get a personalized fix list in 2 minutes — free Works with Bambu Studio, OrcaSlicer, PrusaSlicer and Cura. No account needed.

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