PETG Complete Settings Guide for Bambu Lab Printers

PETG sits between PLA and ABS: tougher and more heat-resistant than PLA, far less fussy than ABS. It has exactly two personality flaws — it strings, and it either sticks too little or far too much. This guide covers every setting that matters, starting from Bambu's own stock profile.

Baseline: Bambu’s stock PETG profile

These are the values Bambu’s PETG profile ships with on current printers (X2D generation) — a sane starting point for any brand of PETG:

Setting	Stock value	Notes
Nozzle temperature	250 °C (245 °C first layer)	Safe range 230–270 °C
Bed, textured PEI	70 °C	Go 80–85 °C if corners lift
Bed, SuperTack	60 °C	Never above 65 °C on this plate
Bed, Cool Plate	0 = unsupported	Incompatible — switch plates
Part cooling fan	30–60 %	Off for the first 3 layers
Auxiliary (side) fan	0 %	Kept off to avoid uneven cooling
Overhang fan	90 %	Extra air only where needed
Flow ratio	0.95	Calibrate for non-Bambu brands
Max volumetric speed	16 mm³/s	23 with the high-flow hotend profile
Retraction	0.4 mm	Direct drive — keep it short

PETG softens around 60 °C (its glass transition), which is why the bed runs at 70+ — the bottom layers stay slightly tacky and grip the plate.

Plate choice and adhesion

Textured PEI is the best PETG plate: strong grip at 70–85 °C, clean release when cool.
Smooth PEI works but PETG can bond so hard it damages the coating on removal. Always apply a thin film of glue stick as a release agent.
Cool Plate is marked incompatible in Bambu’s profile (bed temperature 0) — adhesion will fail no matter what you set.
SuperTack is usable at 60 °C, but 65 °C is the hard ceiling for the coating; textured PEI is the safer everyday choice.
Corners lifting anyway? Bed to 80–85 °C, brim Outer brim only at 8 mm, and verify the auxiliary fan is at 0 % — the full playbook is in the warping guide.

Stringing: PETG’s signature problem

Two levers fix nearly all PETG stringing, in this order:

Dry the spool: 8 hours at 65 °C. PETG is hygroscopic, and moisture is the most common cause of both stringing and rough, bubbly surfaces. Crackling or steam at the nozzle is the giveaway.
Drop the nozzle 10 °C, from 250 down toward 235–245 °C. Temperature is PETG’s biggest stringing lever — cooler melt is simply less sticky.

Only then touch retraction: increase in 0.2 mm steps toward 0.8–1.0 mm, never past 2 mm on a direct-drive Bambu (heatbreak clog risk). More in the stringing guide.

Strength and layer bonding

For stronger parts, raise the nozzle toward 255–260 °C — hotter PETG welds layers noticeably better.
Keep the fan moderate: the stock 30–60 % band is a compromise. Below it, overhangs melt; above it, layer bonding suffers. If parts split along layers, cap the max fan lower and see the layer separation guide.
Do not heat the chamber for PETG. With a glass transition around 60 °C, a warm chamber invites heat creep and sagging overhangs — Bambu’s PETG profile keeps chamber temperature at 0.

Brand cheat sheet

Manufacturer-published ranges for popular PETG products — useful when a spool misbehaves on the Bambu defaults:

Brand	Product	Nozzle	Bed	Drying
Polymaker	PolyLite PETG	230–260 °C	70–80 °C	65 °C / 6 h
eSUN	eSUN PETG	240–260 °C	75–90 °C	60 °C / 4 h
Prusament	Prusament PETG	240–260 °C	70–90 °C	55 °C / 6 h
Overture	Overture PETG	230–260 °C	65–70 °C	60 °C / 5 h
SUNLU	SUNLU PETG	240–260 °C	60–65 °C	60–65 °C / 6–8 h
Elegoo	ELEGOO PETG Pro	230–260 °C	65–75 °C	60 °C / 8 h
Bambu Lab	Bambu PETG HF	230–260 °C	65–75 °C	65 °C / 8 h

If your brand runs colder than Bambu’s 250 °C default (several list 230–260 °C), and you see blobs or heavy stringing, moving toward the middle of the manufacturer’s range beats guessing. For no-name spools, run Bambu Studio’s flow rate calibration — generic PETG can be several percent off the 0.95 stock flow ratio.

Frequently asked questions

What temperature should I print PETG at on a Bambu printer?

Bambu’s stock PETG profile runs the nozzle at 250 °C with a 245 °C first layer, within a safe range of 230–270 °C. The textured PEI bed runs at 70 °C — go 80–85 °C if corners lift. For stronger parts, raise the nozzle toward 255–260 °C for better layer welding; against stringing, drop about 10 °C toward 235–245 °C.

Which build plate works best for PETG?

Textured PEI is the best PETG plate: strong grip at 70–85 °C and clean release when cool. Smooth PEI works, but PETG can bond so hard it damages the coating — always apply a thin film of glue stick as a release agent. The Cool Plate is marked incompatible in Bambu’s profile (bed temperature 0), and the SuperTack is usable at 60 °C with a hard 65 °C ceiling.

Should I heat the chamber or run high fan for PETG?

No to both. PETG’s glass transition sits around 60 °C, so a warm chamber invites heat creep and sagging overhangs — Bambu’s PETG profile keeps chamber temperature at 0. Keep the part fan in the stock 30–60 % band: below it overhangs melt, above it layer bonding suffers, and the auxiliary side fan stays at 0 % to avoid uneven cooling.

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Sources

FDM 3D Printing Filament guide for Beginners — Bambu Lab Wiki
Stringing and oozing — Bambu Lab Wiki
Filament Drying Recommendations — Bambu Lab Wiki