Troubleshooting 3D Prints on RatRig Printers

RatRig's V-Core line is the leading DIY Klipper CoreXY kit after Voron, and every curated size — V-Core 3 and V-Core 4 in 300/400, plus the smaller V-Minion — ships open-frame with panels sold separately.

The RatRig lineup we cover

5 curated RatRig machines are in our knowledge base, taken from the vendor's own OrcaSlicer-family printer profiles: 0 of 5 ship (or come standard) with an enclosure, and 0 of 5 carry a dedicated auxiliary (side/chamber) part-cooling fan in addition to the main print-cooling fan.

Every RatRig machine we track (V-Core 3 300/400, V-Core 4 300/400, V-Minion) is open-frame with no enclosure and no auxiliary fan in the profile data — RatRig's kits explicitly sell enclosure panels as a separate accessory rather than including them, per the vendor's own kit pages.

Cooling and the enclosure question

With every RatRig machine open by default, cooling is a pure part-fan-and-shroud story until a builder adds their own enclosure. That means ABS/ASA/PC/PA-CF on a stock RatRig need the same tent-and-brim treatment any open printer needs, regardless of how capable the CoreXY motion system is at speed. If you've built enclosure panels for yours, treat it like an enclosed printer for warping-prone materials — back the part-cooling fan off and let chamber heat do more of the work, the same trade every enclosed machine makes.

Baseline settings for RatRig filament profiles

These are the values the vendor's own OrcaSlicer-family profiles ship with for the materials it supports natively; use them as your starting point, then adjust per spool with the calibrations linked below.

What tends to go wrong on RatRig printers

Before you assume it's a setting

None of the numbers above are RatRig-specific magic — they're the vendor's own OrcaSlicer-family profile defaults, which means they carry the same caveat every third-party filament profile does: they're a starting point, not a guarantee. Two checks catch most "the settings are wrong" reports before they turn into hours of random tweaking:

• Run flow-ratio calibration on any filament that isn't the exact brand the profile was written for. A generic or off-brand spool can be several percent off the stock flow ratio, and that shows up as over- or under-extrusion that looks like a slicer problem but isn't.
• Confirm the plate type in the slicer matches the plate on the bed. Mismatched plate selection is the single most common cause of a print that "should have stuck" on any of these machines, RatRig included.

Whatever you're chasing beyond that, the general fix is the same everywhere: change one variable, print a small test, read the result before touching the next value. The diagnosis tool turns your specific machine, filament and symptom into that ordered list automatically.